In winter, Kazakhstan is a land of vast white expanses and temperatures that can plummet to -40 degrees. Philippe Gougler begins his journey in the east of the country with a surprising encounter: along a frozen river, a group of people has gathered for a cold-exposure club. Bundled up warmly, Philippe watches these outdoor enthusiasts take dips in the river and roll around in the snow. While on a night train to the capital, Astana—the second-coldest capital in the world—Philippe meets a fellow passenger who tells him about some rather surprising Kazakh traditions.